FOODIE FUN IN SAN SEBASTIAN

7 May , 2016 Travels

PINCHO ME – I’VE DIED AND GONE TO HEAVEN

by Neil Stevens

I am at last sufficiently recovered from the onslaught of gastronomy last weekend that swelled my stomach to such proportions that only now can I get my hands close enough to reach the keyboard. I can now report fully on the highlight of our gruelling four day research project, The Pinxto Tour – pronounced ‘pincho’. Yes, the lengths some of us have to go for the edification of The Restaurant Club!

We hopped a couple of hours southwest of Stansted (which used to be such a lovely airport but is now akin to running the gauntlet of a Disneyland queue with its endless trek through ghastly tat-filled shops) via Bilbao to the beautiful food Mecca of Europe called San Sebastián in the heart of the Basque region of Spain.

Crammed with Michelin Stars, enough to populate a Galaxy, it is equally replete with local bars whose counters are overflowing with mini local delights. So it is with drooling anticipation that we embark on our Pinxto Tour and follow our fabulous guide Erskerne who, using her intimate local knowledge, deftly escorts us to numerous ‘Jatetxea’ (eating places)  patronised mainly by the natives.

With not a drop being spilt, crisp Txakoli wine is poured from dizzying heights into thick tumblers, aerating it in the journey from bottle to glass to produce an outstanding zingy zesty fizzy-like tipple. Or Sagardoa (cider, also poured from the rafters) with it’s almost sweet & sour taste which is so dry to the palate your tongue feels like it’s encased in a leather pouch.

We hit at least six bars taking in different Pintxos at each and pouring said wine and cider ourselves with great hilarity & many drops spilt! A shrimp brochette here, Pimientos de Gernika there. moist crab tartlets followed by heady wild mushrooms or mini croissants filled with acorn-fed ham. Guindillas peppers with anchovy and olives are a Pintxo called Gilda and these we make ourselves and feed to each other as there’s a local romantic association relating to Rita Hayworth and the film Gilda. Micuil Toast is a silky-smooth foie gras emulsion  and Txipieron croquettes (cuttlefish) are jet-black, and unctuous yet somehow sinister.  Scrummy t-bone steak croquettes are swiftly bettered by melting and buttery Foie a la Parilla (grilled),  Naturally we have the ubiquitous boquerones al la vinagre (marinated anchovies) and pimientos padrón – it would be rude not to. We also tasted several local reds which of course are from Tempranillo & Garnacha grapes, aka Riojas. Mmmmmm.

And eat your heart out Cheesecake Factory. We topped all this with the Ultimate Cheesecake. No base, just a firm custard, finished off crème brûlée style but without the caramelised sugar topping. Utterly divine and it was at this point, whilst washing it down with a Vino dulce, that we really knew we had all died and gone to heaven. As far as eating is concerned, San Sebastián is Heaven and a must for anyone prepared to explore further than the limitations of London and the M25!

To find out about Pinxto tours click here